When we last left our anime/sci-fi inspired protagonist, she’d just had her armour painted and was looking for a new cloak to complete the ensemble.
I love painting cloaks. More often than not they have really obvious ridges and depths that make it dead simple to paint and automatically add so much to a model.
I’m going to apologise in advance for these photos – it was not until I was almost done that I found a good angle to use so you could see the colours.
This is after one layer of Gnarl’s Green. I wanted to include this so you can see how patchy it is (priming white will show this more than black usually), and so you can compare it to the next image.
This is after 4 to 5 layers of Gnarl’s Green – its a little patchy in places (look at the raised edges), but most of that will be covered by other paint so it’s likely acceptable to continue. It is important when layers coats to let the previous layer dry before starting the next. If you don’t you’ll likely pull the paint away and cause unevenness. It can be hard to be patient – but find something to distract you. Another model works well, or even watch some TV if necessary. Thinner paints will dry faster, but sometimes its cold enough that nothing seems to dry. It will, give it time.
BAD PHOTO ALERT!
This is after I’ve put down straight Sanguine Base into the recesses. You may have noticed, I like to work straight from the pot and do my mixing later on. Thanks to a wonderful tool, Sanguine Base is the perfect colour to shade Gnarl’s Green. Go read that PDF, its a fantastic resource for those of us who don’t know colour theory – I’ve been using it for years. You just have to remember that the shades/highlights for flesh colours are to keep them looking fleshy – and you’ll be right.
After a couple of rounds of blending. You should know my drill by now, and if you think your colour boarders are rough, just put down a thin layer of your base colour.
After highlighting with Iosan Green. This should be fairly thin so that you can build the colour up over several layers without needing to blend. If you’re not sure where the highlights are, put your model under a light and see where it reflects. You can also see the horrible job I did cleaning this model with the flash line running down the cloak.
Shoulder and Hair
I was getting a little tired (torn calf will do that), but wanted to tie off the main body of the model before going to bed.
This is why I love priming in white. I apply a couple of layers of Necrotite Green over the prime and it pops! It also exposes any patchiness in your primer, so more often than not you should reclaim and messy parts and smooth out your area with a white paint before doing something like this. I didn’t and it shows in the later photos more.
A reverse shot of the previous image. To this I will use thinned down Iosan Green as the shade, and a mix of Menoth White Highlight and Necrotite Green along the edges as the highlight.
I applied a thin coat of Arcane Blue over the white primer.
Once the Arcane Blue had dried I used a wash of Blue Ink. Unfortunately, the depth on the hair of this model is shallow so the ink acted more like a stain and went everywhere.
Once the ink had dried, I went back and did a light dry-brush of Arcane Blue over the main part of the hair, and picked out the fringe to reclaim it. You cannot see it in this image, but the crown area was re-darkened with the ink to give some realism back to the area. If you have it, the Retribution of Scyrah faction book has great techniques for painting crazy anime hair that the Retribution are famous for.
Stay tuned for the last session where I’ll paint the weapons, pouches and goggles and with any luck – also base the model.